Tomb of Mirza Aziz Kokaltash, a foster brother of Akbar is a fine monument of Akbar era.

Story of Akbar and his empire is fascinating. At the age of 13, empire was thrust upon him when Humayun died from a fall at Purana Qila. 

Under the tutelage of foster mothers and relatives, Akbar took time to consolidate. Meanwhile there were rivalries and fights among those near to the throne. One such rivalry was amongst foster relatives, particularly among foster mother families. Adham Khan, son of foster mother Maham Anga, in a fit of jealousy, killed Atagah Khan, husband of another foster mother and he was buried in Nizamuddin Basti. Akbar, enraged by this act, got Adham Khan killed by getting him thrown from the ramparts of Agra fort. His son, Mirza Kokaltsh grew to be an important General of his time and created a marble tomb for himself in his life time, again in the vicinity of Nizamuddin tomb.

Today this tomb, a beautiful marble structure, stands in the vicinity of Mirza Ghalib tomb and is a fine example of Mughal architecture. It consists of 64 pillars structure. There are many cenotaphs in the monument, the most important being that of Mirza Aziz Kokaltash.

This monument, after restoration by Aga Khan Trust is visually appealing and beautiful. When visiting Nizamuddin Tomb, one can look at this fine structure.

Gurudwara Sheesh Ganj stands at the place where Guru Tegh Bahadur attained martyrdom. Today it is one of the most sacred Gurudwara.

Take your mind back to the year 1675 and you will come across the might of the Mughals in the form of ruler Aurangzeb. The ninth Sikh Guru Tegh Bahadur Saheb was championing right of people to their faith and he was imprisoned, tortured and done to death at this place which used to be a Kotwali then.

Come to the year 1784 and Sardar Baghel Singh captured Delhi and the might of Mughals had gone to dust. A Gurudwara was made at the spot the Guru attained martyrdom. Today it is a beautiful Gurudwara recalling the supreme sacrifice of the Guru. 

Inside the Gurudwara, it is serene and beautiful. There is a 24 hour langar at the place which was Kotwali then and adjacent to it is a serai where pilgrims can stay. The Kada Prashad is so good. One feels fulfilled being at this place.

At the ground level there is a memorial to the Guru where he was done to death. It is a sentimental place and sacred to all. There is also the original well which existed at the time of sacrifice. It is said the Guru took holy bath at this well before being done to death. Today this well, preserved the way it was then, is sacred.

Irony of the place is the coexisting Sunheri Masjid. My colleague who led the group narrated how things change. That time the mosque ws the most prominent structure in the vicinity. Today, the mosque is nearly inconsequential except the fact that Nadir Shah sat there while presiding the massacre to Delhi in 1739, the Gurudwara is the most important structure in the entire Chandni Chowk. 

As Chandni Chowk is always congested for traffic, it is better to leave your car in the Jama Masjid or other parkings and walk the distance. We loved walking though it was a bit hot. Or go on Sunday when Chandni Chowk market is closed.

“Shah Burj controlled the water channels in Red Fort. This was much damaged in 1857 war.”

Shah Burj is a tower at the north east junction of the Red fort. Originally this was 3 storeyed tower and controlled the water supply to the fort from Yamuna river which flowed next to the fort then. The tower was damaged in the heavy cannon fire at 1857 war and was rebuilt. Today not much aesthetic is involved in the tower as water does not come in the fort through this channel. This was the highest point of the fort on the eastern side apart from Asad Burj at the southern side. A marble pavilion near it was later addition apparently during 19th century.

The magnificent Qutub early morning on a holiday.

It was a holiday this last Friday and I reached the magnificent Qutub very early in the morning. The Qutub has been attracting me for so many years. I distinctly remember my being awe struck when I saw it for the first time in early 1987. 

The elegant and beautiful Qutub Minar.

Ever since I have been coming again and again. The massive and beautiful tower is visible from a distance and as you reach nearer you gasp in wonder how they could build this masterpiece nearly a thousand years ago.

The eastern Gate to Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque with Iron Pillar seen.

The Iron Pillar and the screens of Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque.

The Pillar of the mosque are all from the temples of the time.

The five storeyed structure is fabulously beautiful. Admire its different storeys each having different pattern. If you love photography you can shoot it from different places and angles within the Qutub complex.

The beautiful Qutub Minar as seen amid screens of the mosque.

The incomplete Alai Minar and the Qutub.

The beautiful Qutub, Alai Darwaza and Tomb of Imam Azim.

The Madarasa of Alauddin Khilji.

Chaumukha Darwaza near MetCalf's Follies.

One of the MetCalf's Follies in the Qutub Complex.

You can also admire the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque, its pillars from the destroyed temple structures, the magnificent Iron Pillar which has not rusted for nearly 2000 years, the beautiful screens of the mosque, beautiful tomb of Iltutmish who completed the Qutub, beautiful Alai Darwaza, Alai tomb and Madarsa, Tomb of Imam Azim, Smith's Folly which used to be at the top of Minar for some years and the incomplete Alai Minar which Alauddin thought would be double the size of the Qutub but could not complete even the first storey of the structure. Near the entrance of the Qutub is the Mughal time mosque, serai and the garden. Also one can see the MetCalf's follies in the form of a spiral and pyramid.

Overall the most important monument and most magnificent in Delhi.

Early morning serenity and bliss at Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah

Since my last visit to the Dargah I have had chance to know much more about the Sufi Saint and to have a different experience altogether, I decided to visit the final resting place of the Saint, very early in the morning on a Sunday.

Dargah is blissfully beautiful

Things were so different and so beautiful. It was so peaceful and soothing early in the morning. I had a look at the famous baoli which was the subject matter of imperial concern at the time it was being dug out. When the imperial order issued by Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq of banning work on baoli did not succeed, workers out of devotion to the Saint worked in night. When oil was stopped being sold, another Sufi Saint Chirag-i-Dill is said to have lamps burn with the baoli water. 

Baoli is serene in the morning.

The shrine is so peaceful in the morning. I had a chance to get inside the sanctum, pray to the Saint, appreciate the beauty of the place and was lucky to be told about the history of Dargah by the caretakers of the tomb. It is such a beautiful work done on the ceiling, walls of the tomb, over hundreds of years. 

Beautiful lattices at Dargah.

I had a chance to visit Amir Khusro tomb, the Khilji mosque, tombs of Jahanara Begum, Mohammad Shah, Mirza jehangir and the adjacent tombs of Atagha Khan, Mirza Ghalib,  the16th century Chausath Khamba and the Ghalib Academy.

Walls of Dargah are beautiful with threads tied by devotees.

The Saint lies in serenity here.

The whole experience was superb. Unless you want to absorb the atmosphere of music and emotions, early morning is the best time to visit the tomb.

Beautiful wall of Dargah with work in Gold.

The Ceiling and walls of Dargah are beautiful.

Beautiful Dargah walls.

Princess Roshnara Begum: She created beautiful Roshnara Bagh and her own tomb which is open to sky.

The story of Begam Roshnara is fascinating.

She was one of the fourteen children of emperor Shahjehan and Mumtaz Mahal. As it so happened Mumtaz Mahal died young during child birth and left her children young. The eldest daughter Princess Jehanara and her brother Dara Shikoh were favourites of their father and Dara Shikoh was chosen to succeed as king. Aurangzeb ,the third among the princes and Roshnara were close and supported each other. 

While Shahjehanabad was being created pride of place went to Shahjehan, Princess Jehanara and Dara Shikoh, Roshnara got this beautiful garden constructed slightly away from main city. 

As it turned out Dara Shikoh was killed in the war of succession, Shahjehan was imprisoned and Aurangzeb became the king. For sometime Roshnara played important role during his rule but later on there were problems between Roshnara Begum and the emperor.

Roshnara died in 1671 and was buried in the tomb which she had made for herself. This tomb is a beautiful Mughal architecture and consists of plastered roofless grave chamber in the center, surrounded by a hall, the four sides of which have arcaded dalans, with double storeyed domed chambers on the corners.

The gardens have gates on all four sides. A walk in the gardens and the tomb will

The Beautiful Roshana Bagh Baradari and Tomb.

The Southern entrance to Roshnara Bagh.

Tiled decoration at the southern entrance.

Beautiful marble lattice at Roshnara Bagh.

The Bardari is still beautiful after more than 400 years.

Inside of the tomb which is simple and open to sky.

make you think of the Princess Roshnara, her times, the rivalries of those times and she lying alone in her grave, far off from her relatives and friends.

Overall a beautiful Mughal Garden and the story of a lonely princess.